Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Over the Mtns to Death Valley


Adventures on Mountain Roads
I've been driving for a long time and have been up and down both the Rockies and the Appalachians several times without incident! Thinking about it though I've never really had the time to take the route much less traveled like I have on this trip!
Remember those signs you see on mountain roads that say Truckers use low gear? My reaction was always, "that's for the trucks." A closer examination of those signs often tells you to expect a 4% or 6% grade.
Now by this time I've been through about 6 or 8 mountain passes without a problem. I have absolutely mastered the art of getting the little red car up the steepest grade totally dependant on the 76 horses of the gas engine by the top. But I was always recharging on the way down and that additional drag made brake use, well...., just not a problem! Then along came CA 155 which goes over the Greenhorn Mountains and takes you down to the Isabella Reservoir.
This highway wound gradually to about 4500 feet but came down in a hurry. The grade was 11% but not for a very long time. I was able to do that with brakes and third gear. Almost immediately I was climbing again but carefully I conserved battery power, conserved it too much. It would have been better to have none because the downward grade after that was 14%! I crept over the precipice in second gear going 10 miles per hour! This hill was so long and so steep that the engine temperature started cooling down. At my fastest I was going 70 miles per hour in second gear and still couldn't keep the car from going faster. The engine was literally turning at near maximum speed of 6000 rpm's. I applied brakes, had too, and continued to pump them trying to bring my speed down to a safe 60 at which point I could smell brakes and more importantly I could feel that they were, hot, soft and not doing what is critically important that they do! I'm smart enough to know that these are all very bad signs! So I used what brakes I had to get off the road and get the car stopped. Obviously I was successful! I got out of the car to immediately check the rear wheels to insure that the emergency brake would hold the car from falling off the mountain. They were very warm but not too hot. Good! The front brakes were so hot you couldn't touch the wheel without instantly pulling your hand away! I sat for an hour to let things cool off, pulled off a wheel to physically inspect and decided that there is still adequate brake pad left to continue. I scared the crap out of myself to be sure!
What I learned here is that when you get that first whiff of chemical smell it's time to stop and cool your brakes. You literally have very little time left after you get the brake smell! All you need to do at that point is, stop, take some time, and let things cool a bit.
They Don't Call it Death Valley for Nothing!
Between Sequoia and Las Vegas it no longer feels like California. It's very poor country and everything around you seems poor. By sundown I'm tired from today's adventures and I'm looking for the Hilton. Not only is there no Hilton there not even a Hilton wannabee nor even a Days Inn wannabee. There is, however, the RanchOlancha Motel in Olancha, California. Now you can't tell that from the road because the sign is lit but only the letters "tel" still remain. For only $60 you get a room, the carpet is stained but in truth it didn't seem real dirty but who wanted to look further! The mattress was one of those you can't fall off but you can't get out of the middle either. The central heat comes in the form of a space heater in the very center of the room. I slept in my sleeping with the addition of my fleece liner in place. It was cold but at least I was in doors. It got down to 24 that night. Central heating is a wonderful thing!

Sequioa





There really is a magnificence to these trees that it's difficult to capture with a camera. The tree behind me, in the picture above, is the General Sherman(a maniac made famous by legal war crimes in the south) The Sherman is the largest tree, "in the world" by volume. It's probably 2,000 years old! It has withstood countless fires! The truth is though that the largest trees were cut about a hundred years ago when the ravaging of this continent was at it's worst. That was the same period when Wisconsin and Michigan were deforested.
One of the things I've noticed about these forests is a striking lack of four-legged critters. With all of the conifer cones you would at least expect the park to be crawling with squirrels but there are very few animals about. Perhaps it's the beginning of winter? The rangers are constantly reminding people about bears but I was able to successfully convince a young mom at the hotel that she could take her two overly energetic children for a walk around Grant's Cove without fear of them being eaten! My intention was merely to see the little darlings burn off a little excess energy!
I did see a pretty interesting car accident. A vehicle rolled over and laying on it's side. One apparent injury but not serious from the look of it. Everyone was sitting up. The vehicle, of course, was an SUV, a giant Chevrolet Suburban. It was an unfortunate end to their day!
From here I'm off, over the mountains, and into Death Valley.

Saturday, December 1, 2007

Yellowstone Adventures






Yellowstone Monday , Tuesday and Wednesday November 3, 4 and 5.
About 1:45 PM I rolled up to the little house where they take the money with $80 in my hot little hand! Ranger Susan promptly informs me that the park closed this morning at 8AM. Well "open the damned thing back up, I've driven 3,000 miles to get here." Ranger Susan complains that everyone has been blaming her for closing the park. In fact the park is always open, they just closed 80% of the roads for the winter.
Yellowstone National Park is a spectacular place even though most of it is in Wyoming(home of the that Rat Bastard....you know who I mean!) Even with most of it closed the views and the critters are spectacular. My first hour I met a real live Elk-American which I thought(this will make me seem dull-witted) was stuffed and on display outside the Visitor Center. When it seemed to move it's head I got suspicious! When it moved it's ears, I was convinced! I came through about 200 0f them Tuesday evening as I was leaving the park.
The Bison Americans are even more ubiquitous!(75cent word!) Some guy actually came around a corner on a remote trail and pardoned himself for disrupting a bison grazing.
THE GREAT BISON/INSIGHT RACE
Please examine closely, the top right picture above. Off in the mist you see the hind quarters of the instigator of the great race. Driving down the only road in the park that's open I came upon 3 Bison-Americans walking down the road in my direction. Since the big guy that you see weighs almost twice my car, I decided to yield the right of way. I sat in the middle of the road for a few minutes while they meandered when an SUV passed me quickly. In a few seconds the SUV driver realized what was about! He/she got up to the bison and when it looked like they were making way they would move back in front of him. They did this three times to my delight. Another car passed successfully so I decided it was now my turn. I got up to the bull, the only bison then on the road and he was snorting with irritation. I decide it prudent to get by quickly. As I passed I glanced to the side and saw that the gang of three was back on the road and they were racing the little red bison!
As you would expect I won the race and made my opponents eat grass.

Kings Canyon/Sequoia








This real time now. It is December 1. I am sitting in a roon at the John Muir Lodge and it's quite comfortable and a real bargain for a pensioner, probably not expensive enough for you people with real jobs. The fog seems to be moving in but more importantly the promised snow did not materialize.








This is a beautiful park. Many Californian(for what it's worth!) consider it there favorite. I've taken some pictures but they don't capture the enormity of this place. Grant has a tree, California has one. The Dick Cates tree is farther back and will visit it today probably. Staying two days and more to come.








I'm amazed how all of the National Parks I've been in are so empty. Nobody on the trails and last night the dining room had about 6 tables full!